Marion Sand & Metal Pty Ltd

How to Lay the Pavers:

1. Preparation of the site
Prepare your site to produce a firm base to a uniform depth. Bedding sand cannot be used to level out an uneven base because the sand will compact unevenly and this will show in your finished paving. The base should be deep enough to allow for your paver plus 25mm of bedding sand (beware of a clay base). Use a string line set at the finished level. The pavement must have a slope to shed surface water. All vegetation and top soil must be removed.
For light traffic areas, if your base is not firm or has a high clay content, dig out a further 50mm and replace with a good base course material (eg. quarry rubble), well compacted.
For driveways, unless you are sure your ground is stable, dig out a minimum of 100mm and replace with quarry rubble and fully compact.

2a. Spread bedding sand
The depth of the sand bed is important. For good compaction you need an even layer of loose sand of between 25 and 40mm. To avoid compacting the sand before you've laid your pavers, work in small areas at a time spreading the sand and laying your pavers before moving on to the next area. Suitable pieces of timber or pipe can be used to keep your spreading board at the right height. Before laying, remove these pieces and fill gaps with bedding sand.

2b. Set out
It helps when laying pavers to have a grid of stringlines stretched across the job to keep you laying in straight lines. The stringlines should be spaced according to the size of several pavers adding 2mm for each joint.

3. Laying pavers
Work to the pattern you have chosen by laying it forward in rows. As you lay each paver, do it carefully so the even bed of sand is not disturbed. Place each paver in position ensuring it is close but not touching adjoining pavers. Try to maintain a 2-3mm gap. This is called close jointed and will enable the gap to be filled with sand later. As you work you can stand or sit on the pavers you have already laid but avoid putting weight on the leading row.

4. Cutting pavers
Measure and mark the required cuts on the paver itself. Then use a brick bolster, paver splitter or diamond saw (recommended) to cut the paver. These can be hired locally. The cut piece should fit neatly leaving a small gap all around.

5. Place edge restraints
The edge restraint locks in the pavers at the edge of the job. Of the several different ways to build the edge restraint, one of the simplest is the hidden concrete kerb. Dig a trench along the paving edge, deeper than the bedding sand, then shovel concrete into place, forming an edge against the concrete pavers. Leave enough room for soil to cover the concrete then grass can go right up to paving.

6. First compaction
The best way to lock the paving into place is with a plate vibrator, which compacts the bedding sand. For small areas, manual compacting using a rubber mallet and a piece of hardwood will achieve the desired result. Before you start compacting, spread fine white ashed sand over the pavers and sweep into the joint.

7. Sweep in sand
With the first compaction completed, sweep some more fine dry sand across the paving and work it into the gaps as you go.

8. Second compaction
Compact the surface again, using the same implements as before. This time you are forcing sand down into the gaps from above. This second compaction locks the pavers in place.

Paving Patterns

From left to right: 90deg.Herringbone, Basket Weave (Parquetry), Stretcher Bond, 45deg.Herringbone with Header.